Growing Peanuts In The North

Texas crop report

COLLEGE STATION (AP) - The following reports were compiled by AgriLife Extension for the week of June 28:

SOUTH PLAINS: The region remained very hot, dry and windy. Burn bans were extended, and July 4 fireworks celebrations were to be curtailed. Most dryland crops failed and were being adjusted by insurance inspectors. There was no moisture available to establish a subsequent crop of any kind. Producers who managed to establish a stand under irrigation were struggling to keep up with water demands. High winds caused soil erosion. More cattle were culled as there was no forage available and supplemental feed supplies were running out.

PANHANDLE: The region's weather remained extremely hot, dry and windy with no moisture. The danger of wildfire was extreme. Soil moisture was mostly very short. All summer crops were struggling due to high temperatures, lack of moisture and wind. Irrigators were constantly watering all summer crops, but were having a hard time keeping up with the water demand. Rangeland and pasture conditions were mostly very poor. Livestock producers were either digging in and feeding cattle, hoping the drought breaks, or selling herds. There were reports of southwestern corn borers and armyworms.

CENTRAL: Some areas received rain, but for most of it was too little, too late. Area conditions remained extremely dry. High winds continued to be an issue. Stock-water tanks were low. Pastures remained in critical condition with little to no forage. Farmers were cutting some corn for silage. Area ranchers were buying silage due to the lack of hay production. Cattle were being sold off by some producers.

COASTAL BEND: Most of the region received light rains, with isolated areas reporting as much as 3 inches. The rain was expected to help rangeland and pastures, but it came too late to benefit most field crops. The grain sorghum harvest continued. With the hot days, cotton was rapidly maturing; some bolls were opening. Livestock continued to need supplemental hay and protein. In some counties, producer continued reducing herds.

EAST: Parts of the region received as much as 7 inches of rain, which raised lake and pond levels and improved pastures. However, much more moisture was needed throughout the area to relieve stressed forages and crops. Many producers were feeding hay to livestock. Grasshoppers continued to be a problem. With the ongoing drought and short hay supplies, livestock producers were severely culling herds. The harvesting of vegetables, blackberries and blueberries continued. Wildfire danger remained extremely high, and burn bans were kept in place. Rain in Trinity and Polk counties helped firefighters control the two-county wildfire, but more than 20,000 acres burned.

Growing Peanuts In Your Garden « Chicken Talk With Rooster Shamblin

Peanuts are a hot season vegetable that is easy to grow in a home garden. Because peanuts do best during a long, hot growing season, plant them from April until early June. The seeds are shelled and planted about 1 to 1 1/2 inches deep. There are about four or five seeds for each foot of row. Raw peanuts can be purchased from your local grocery store.

The peanuts need a well drained, light, sandy soil. On heavy clay type soils, add plenty of sand to keep the soil from compacting. My family grows peanuts in Oklahoma, Alabama, Georgia, and Florida. We are 3rd generation cotton and peanut farmers.

Because peanuts can find enough fertilizer left over from other crops, they can be planted in April after winter greens and you may not have to add fertilizer. Don’t plant them after another legume. During the winter, we grow wheat on the land.

If you are planting peanuts on a new row in the garden, put down only one half cup or one half handful of 8-8-8 fertilizer for each 10 feet of row. Peanuts need calcium in the top three to four inches of soil where pods develop. Without calcium, nuts will not fill out. Gypsum which is calcium sulfate, can be applied when the peanuts flower to supply needed calcium. Have a soil test run to see if you need extra calcium or put down about one cup of gypsum for each 10 feet of row. Never put down lime without a soil test because too much lime can make your soil too sweet for peanut production.

First prepare your soil for peanuts, loosen it with a shovel or rotary tiller as deep as you can. Add four inches of compost or leaves and mix well with soil. Make sure no clumps remain. Work soil when it’s moist, not wet or dry. Myself I blend rotted timothy or brome hay into the soil.

Apply one half handful or one half cup of 8-8 8 fertilizer for every 10 feet of row. I use a gallon of rabbit manure instead. Make raised beds so the 8-8-8 is under them. Place beds three feet apart. Let them settle for a week and then plant seeds one inch deep, with about 6 seeds for each foot of row. Allow only two or three plants per foot to remain.

The flowering and fruiting of peanuts are unique. Plants flower above ground, but the pods develop below ground. Peanut plants begin to bloom about 30 to 40 days after emergence. The flowers are small, bright yellow, and pea like in appearance. After pollination and fertilization occurs, the stalk (peg) below the fertilized ovary elongates and curves downward. It takes about 10 days for the peg to penetrate into the soil. A week after soil penetration, the peg tip enlarges and pod and seed development begin. The fruit mature in 9 to 10 weeks with favorable temperatures and moisture conditions. Since the peanut plant flowers over several weeks, all the pods do not mature at the same time.

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